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Image from page 98 of “Nature and the camera; how to photograph live birds and their nests; animals, wild and tame; reptiles; insects; fish and other aquatic forms; flowers, trees, and fungi” (1902)
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Identifier: naturecamerahowt00dugm
Title: Nature and the camera; how to photograph live birds and their nests; animals, wild and tame; reptiles; insects; fish and other aquatic forms; flowers, trees, and fungi
Year: 1902 (1900s)
Authors: Dugmore, Arthur Radclyffe, 1870-
Subjects: Nature photography
Publisher: New York, Doubleday, Page
Contributing Library: NCSU Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: NCSU Libraries

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Text Appearing Before Image:
birds with worms or other insectsor fruits. Leave that to the parents; they know farbetter than you what suits a fledgelings stomach.If the day is very hot it is better not to subject theyoungsters to the direct rays of the sun for longerthan is necessary, as they cannot stand too much heat. Now we will consider that all the young ones aresitting quietly on the branch and you have yourcamera in readiness. The next step is to induce themother bird to come. For your success in doingthis, patience is very necessarv, but by far the mostimportant consideration is the birds disposition.Should she be naturally tame, your troubles will befew; but if after waiting for six hours or so she stillrefuses to bring food for her young, your troublewill, in all probability, have been in vain, and youwill have to search for a new subject. I once spenttwo entire days trying to coax a chewink to come :¥ •«i. n 1 ^^ 1 ^^Api ^ *^ vl^^^^B . *»^^ J^ ^tt ^^^^^^^H^k, INDIGO BIRD ABOUT TO FKIiD HKR YOUXG.

Text Appearing After Image:
TXDIC.i) i;iRI) l-i::,DIXC. IIKR VorXG. PHOTOGRAPHING NESTS AND ECiGS ^-,- and find her young who were posing before thecamera, but without success. (Needless to sav, Iallowed them opportunities for feeding b removingthe camera occasionally.) Even though I concealedthe camera with leaves, and while I went fortv feetaway and hid in the bushes, ouc or other of the oldbirds would sit close by and watch every movement.Several times I saw one of the birds go fairly nearthe young (without carrying food), and mv hopeswould be raised, for I thought the other bird hadgone in search of food, when suddenlv from theyoung chestnut-trees which sheltered me a voicewould call * Chewink, chewink, chewink, and Iknew that I was still being watched. Finally, be-coming disgusted and fearing lest the voung mightsuffer for want of food, I packed up my things andwent awav, marvelling at the remarkable patience ofthat pair of chewinks. Birds differ so much in their natures that no rulethat will insure succes

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Snyder vetoes Jones e-cig bill
"We need to make sure that e-cigarettes and other nicotine-containing devices are regulated in the best interest of public health," Snyder said in a statement this morning. "It's important that these devices be treated like tobacco products and help …
Read more on Lansing State Journal Announces Clearette Top Rated Winner of Best e-cig
NEW YORK, Dec. 17, 2014 /PRNewswire/ — ECig Review Central announces Clearette Electronic Cigarette Company as winner of Best e-cig and Vapor Line for 2014 for the second year running. ECig Review Central's annual blind-taste test challenge …
Read more on <a rel="nofollow" href="”>PR Newswire (press release)

mCig, Inc. to Sponsor Booth at SoCal High Times(R) Medical Cannabis Cup(TM
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how to go high wattage on subtank coil

So I happened to burn up my Kanger subtank .5ohm coil yesterday by accidentally not switching from 50 watts back to 30 when I took my RDA off…

In any case I triedbto rewick it but I ended up bending the coil a bit and just threw it out..

I’ve got an empty shell now and some 28 gauge and 32 gauge kanthol… With I had 26 but oh well..

I tried to make a .5ohm coil on it but that was a fail. Only 3 wraps to make it .5ohm….

So I wrapped a 1.5 ohm coil up and threw it in. Works fine to 25 watts then I get the obvious burnt taste… But if I prime it I can get a really flavorful hit at 30-35 watts…

How can I make it so that I can run something like 30 watts on the coil but not get a burnt taste. The cotton is not loose and not tight… Just a little pressure wheb pulling it through the coil..

And does it really make a difference on the ohm rating? Are there any articles about why a lower ohm coil seems to handle more wattage compared to a higher ohm coil? Should the wraps be tight or or loose like they were on the original Kanger coil? I made mine tight together…

Thanks for any explanation. I’m gonna keep fiddling around while I wait for an answer.


The holy Grail: A temperature controlled Nitinol/Kanthal wire E-Cig

Hey guys, I linked to this thread from my previous controller idea.
In my research about Nitinol today, I discovered that it would be rather easy for me to implement a very interesting 510 mod device

Assuming one is using a Nitinol wire, one can precisely control the temperature of said coil of wire with a circuit i’ve crafted up and have tested before in a slightly different application. I’d love to give details, but it is my wish to make a bit of profit from this idea if it proves to be as revolutionary as I think it will…
and that means I want to take every precaution I can to avoid the "ATTACK OF THE CLONES"

I don’t intend on this making me rich. I’d likely rather team up with someone eventually who is already making mods and have them machine out a thing to the requisite dimensioning required, then put it all together.

What this means, is that I have a design of a circuit which can set and maintain the temperature of a nitinol/kanthal E cig coil to any desirable temperature (with respect to the limitation presented by the resistance of the coil and the voltage provided by the battery which limits the current to a single known value ohms law yadda yadda P = I^2*R

I will need to do some experiments on this before I am comfortable releasing it, however the current design goals are as follows.

1. +/- 5*C accuracy temperature control on a single coil of roughly 0.5 ohms resistance.
(We are using a Sub Ohm Coil here for numerous reasons, One being that it makes it easy for the current controller to operate the load as desired. That is, you can get away with a thicker coil that allows more Wattage in your cottage, but because the circuit itself will be regulating current, the power draw from the battery itself will be limited to a known value and thus the battery will not be overdrawn.)

2. As stated above, maximum current draw of 10 amps or so, which will then be lowered and raised in order to maintain said constant temperature.

3- input supply range, 10 volts to 3 volts with no change to output behavior.

4- Total circuit size, 1.5 inches long, 3/4 inch diameter steel tube with 510 connectors in, out, compatable with all mechanical mods including 2 battery, 1 battery, box, etc. Heatsinking done to external shell.


When a normal e-cig is operated, the coil glows bright red, and presently we are using voltage and resistance modifications to make our Kanthal/Nitinol behave at a good temperature… kind of.
However, I think that this would allow an E cigarette to sacrifice some "Traditional" Power efficiency, in the sense that the circuit involved to regulate current will effectively put out the exact right amount of power to keep coil temperature up. In this way, you should* still be saving energy because you are not overheating your wire.

Not only will this save coil lifetime, at least it should, but it also should save energy and battery life.

If you guys want me to try my hand at doing this, I will. I am interested in the project and willing. What I really need is some strong voices out there who might be willing to recieve and "Beta test" my idea for me once I get a crude ish version worked out. Likely what this will entail is a cheapy plastic box with an aluminum heatsink that screws onto a mod and does its thing, with a glitzy final production version coming later if it is liked.

No, I will not share my schematic.


OLD THREAD HERE:::: <a href="!645596!” target=”_blank”>…-interest.html

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A Devastatingly Creative Title

Greetings fellow vapers. My name is John but calling me by my username is fine too. Whoops, just ruined the whole anonymity thing. Anyway…

I quit smoking in November and have been off analogs since then. I had a rough start with PV‘s cause I enjoyed it right away but I had the worst luck with them not lasting. Part of that is me going super cheap at first. I made a good investment a few weeks ago and got a Vision Spinner II plus an awesome bottom flow tank with excellent airflow. I also have my old ego-twist and a few disposable clearos for it as a back-up.

Started at 18 mg and cut down to 12. On the fence about making the jump to 6; climbing down from 18 was easy but I do like nicotine and don’t want to lose the throat hit. Going between strawberry-cream and key lime juices at the moment.

Too poor to get into mods. Might be open to a middle of the line quality atomizer as I’ve heard lots of good things about drip set ups but the clearos are essential for me as I am always vaping while driving.

Where is my mod?!?!?!?!

I’m always a lazy ….. when I come home from work and just sit in bed and mess around on my phone/computer, get up and do stuff, etc. I’m CONSTANTLY ‘losing’ my vaporizer somewhere in my bed. It’s getting old and annoying and ridiculous. My first crappy vape came with a neck lanyard thing, but can’t seem to find anything that works with an eVod VV batt plus tank. Do any of you guys have this problem? Besides becoming more vigilant, are there any accessories I can find to help me out? Thank you!

Currently using a KangerTech eVod VV & Protank 2, Unicorn Blood (FuZion Vapor)

How did this ruin my battery?

I have MNKE 26650s and regularly use them in a quad coil 0.2 ohm build.
Today while cleaning I came across my old Blu cig-a-likes and discovered that the coil "tanks" on them were 510 connections. I threw one on my ohm reader and it came out to 3.1 ohms.
I found it amusing in my head that it would fit on my 26650 mod and thought it would make for a funny picture.
It did.
However when I took a hit (as horrible as I remembered it to be) it wouldn’t fire a second time. I put my RDA back on and got absolutely no hit.
My initial thought was that screwing on the Blu "tank" must have messed up my 510 connection, but after minutes of messing with it, I found that my other batteries were fine and that my mod was ok.
I put that 26650 in my Efest LUC V4 and it’s reading 0.0 volts. Every 5 seconds a few bars of battery life will flash on the screen, but not a voltage reading.

How the hell did a 3.1 ohm "tank" screw up my battery??

Best Smelling eJuice Vapor?

Unfortunately in my home I share with my father that was built in the 1800’s :P, there’s only one bedroom so my bedroom is the living room, where he watches TV at night. He HATES that I vape "that ….." and complains about every juice I use (even if it smells fabulous to me haha). Has anyone ever gotten any compliments about the smell of the juice they’re using? If so, which ones?

Thanks guys!

Currently vaping with a KangerTech eVod VV & Protank 2

OKL-T/20 mod issues

Guys, I’ve posted a few times but it’s been awhile and I guess I didn’t post enough yet to post in a different forum, so forgive me. Long time viewer, first time poster?

Anyways, I’ve been venturing into box modding and I am running into some issues. I have an OKL-T/20 box mod that I have built and everything seems to be fine. Stupid me didn’t put a resistor on my illuminated PV6 switch though and blew the LED. I figured the switch would still function without the light but I fear I am wrong in that regard. When I hit the fire button, I hear clicking noises from the switch, and within a 5 second period it starts to fire. It always makes a clicking noise when I push the fire button though and firing is sporadic. Any thoughts?