It is glad to join in the forum.I hope I can get more newest ecigs information and the knowledge on the ecig.TKS and have a great day:)
-BUT the "press and shoot" system wasn’t as easy as I think the manufacturers were planning it to be, I respect that they did something different than 99% of the RDA’s out there, but it’s seriously hard for my gorilla fingers to press both buttons while inserting my coil, and doesn’t have a tight clamp on them AT ALL. That wouldn’t have been a big deal if the positive post hadn’t popped out. It may have been Quoppa who released it like this but I HIGHLY doubt it, because the craftsmanship on the rest of it is superb, so I’m guessing it was the vendor who hasn’t contacted me back yet. :glare: Long story short, the threads were stripped connecting the 510 pin to the positive post, so it was basically holding on by soft smushed silver, just what you’d expect from a $100 device right? no…
HOWEVER I came up with a solution that would combine the best of both worlds between the Dominator, and my second favorite the Brass Monkee, it has an amazing dual-positive post that makes dual coils a breeze, and even better for this situation; can be screwed down for a more solid anchor point, as opposed to the "spring loaded" system it had before. So I painstakingly removed both of the positive posts (well the dominator was already stripped out), and gently installed the brass monkee’s post into the dominator.
And now…it’s my idea of the perfect RDA, with a dual positive post I can clamp the wired down in, and the outer "press and shoot" negative posts, installing coils literally can’t be any easier, and it’s much less fiddling now that I don’t have to hold down two posts while installing with the other hand. I can now adjust my coils without them working their way out, and even torque them into being straighter. BOOM! Best of both worlds, and I didn’t waste $100 due to my <a href="http://www.vapininthecape.com/DIY-eliquid_c_42.html”>diy nature :p.
-My Brass Monkee will be missed though 😥 it was good to me for a long time, I’m thinking about buying the clone and using the post from it to bring it back in action, until then R.I.P. sweet prince…:nun:
Pictures will be added in version 2. This will eventually be turned into a complete PDF/ebook.
These are truly desperate times friends. The FDA has caved to the powers of big pharma and big tobacco, bringing our favorite life saving hobby under their control. This document is how you fight back. Within this document is instructions on how to build your own vaping equipment. Without further ado, let’s begin.
1. The basics
The personal vaporizer is a simple circuit. It consists of a power source, and an atomizer. Atomizer designs may vary, but they all have one thing in common. There is a positive connection to the battery, and a ground (negative) connection to the battery. When looking at a dripping atomizer like the Igow4, the center post is positive, the outer posts are ground. So is the deck. Essentially, every part of the atomizer except for the center post is negative. This brings us to the connection. Most Personal Vaporizers (PVs) at the time of writing use what’s known as the 510 connector. battery side, there is a female threading (m7 .5) and a center post that connects to the positive terminal of the battery. The threads are negative. The atomizer connection also features a positive center pin (often extending to the build deck) inside the male threading, when these are screwed together, the current runs up through the positive posts, through the heating element and into the negative posts, down to ground, through the threading and to the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Sourcing materials.
This guide is written for a time when 510 connectors may not be sourceable. These are used exclusively for PVs, and if a ban goes into effect, these are likely going to be unavailable. Alternatives must be found. The simplest alternative will be making a "hybrid" device, where the atomizer is part of the mod and cannot be removed. Other options include RCA style connectors and all manner of other connectors, easily sourceable from any electronics stores.
3. How to build a mod.
Within the world of PVs, there are what are known as mods. These are PVs that run off high discharge batteries. Going out on a limb, I imagine that these are going to be avaliable, as their original use was for high power flashlights. there are also "passthrough" style mods, that plug directly into a power source. these instructions are intentionally vague, so as to make it easier to adapt them to what you have on hand.
3a- flashlight mods
The adapting of a flashlight into a mod is probably the easiest and least time intensive of all the mods listed here. Unless you are an experienced modder (what are you doing reading this??) this should be your first survivalist mod.
– a flashlight capable of holding your battery
– some kind of connector or an atty to hardwire
– soldering iron
– momentary switch (the original switch can be modified to be momentary as well)
1. inspect your flashlight carefully. most flashlights will have a pcb of some kind which holds the LEDs. the center of this is typically a direct to battery positive. the outer parts will be the ground, connecting to your flashlight body. instead of running a wire to the negative, the flashlight body itself is negative. this eventually reaches a switch, which connects to the negative terminal of your battery.
2. modify or replace switch. If this is not done, the user wil have to manually click the switch on and off instead of just releasing it.
3. modify or replace the pcb. Use the existing pcb to attach your connector or hardwire your atomizer. find the positive, solder it to the positive on atty/connector, repeat with negative. alternatively, a conductive metal disk can be used to replace the pcb. insulate the positive from the rest of the disk, i find jbweld or any nonconductive material to be ideal for this. the positive of the connector/atty should protrude through the disk. BE SURE THIS IS INSULATED, otherwise you WILL cause a dangerous short. the negative of the atty/connector should be attatched to the disk itself. this disk-atty/connector assembly is soldered into the flashlight in place of the pcb. make aure the positive battery terminal hits the positive poat of the atty/connector, check for shorts using a multimeter. If there are no shorts, either attach an atty or wrap a coil for the one you’ve hardwired in, juice it up, and enjoy your illicit moonshiners vape.
3b – the box mod.
– materials required
– a drill
– a soldering iron
– momentary push button switch
– a box that feels comfortable in your hand, yet is capable of housing all of your components. For the sake of reducing the likelihood of shorts, a non-conductive material should be used.
– the largest gauge wire you can use with your components. The lower the number, the larger the wire. The larger the wire, the lower the resistance, and less resistance= more efficient circuit (less voltage drop).
– a connector or atty you want to hardwire
– a master slide style safety switch to stop accidental firing. Optional but highly recommended.
– regulating circuit
– a led or power indicator of some kind
– you can even trick it out with a screen if you want
– magnets for battery contacts
1. inspect your enclosure. Hold it in your had and figure out where you want your button and where you want to vape from.
2. Drill holes just big enough to hold the connector/atty, and your firing button.
3. Insert these into the holes, and attach them. Solder a wire from the push button switch to the positive battery contact. If using a safety locking switch, solder from positive contact to safety switch, and from safety switch to push button.
4. If you are using a regulation circuit, solder from push button to this, and from the circuit to the positive part of your connector/atty. if you are making an unregulated mod, solder from the button to the positive part of the connector/atty.
5. Solder the negative/ground part of the connector/atty to the negative contact for the battery.
6. Devise a way to hold the battery steady. Velcro may be an option.
7. It is highly recommended that high power magnets be added to the backside of the contacts to reduction the likelihood of loosing the connection.
3c – Basic USB passthrough.
This device is non portable, and operates using the USB cables power supplying ability. USB typically supplies 5v of power. This device can be plugged into a computer or a USB wall adapter.
– a soldering iron
– a connector or atty you wish to hardwire.
– a momentary push button switch
– a USB cable you don’t care too much about
– some sort of enclosure for the button and connector/atty
1. Cut off the non USB end of your cable. Strip the outside of your cable so you can see the colors of the wires inside. We will only be dealing with the red and black wires. Ignore/remove the others.
2. I highly recommend a tube like enclosure, however whatever is on hand can be modified to fit your purpose. Make three holes, one for your connecor/atty one for the button and one for the cable to come out of.
3. Run your cable through the enclosure. Solder the red wire to your positive on the atty/connector. Solder the black to the negative/ground.
4. Clip the red wire, strip it on both sides, and wire your switch into it. Solder, and insert into the hole for the switch.
5. Attach the connector/atty to the enclosure. Do the same for the button.
6. Plug it in, make sure theres nobody watching and vape.
TO BE ADDED:
how to use different connectors
How to make an atomizer
-basic coil builds
How to make emergency ejuice
How to make a variable voltage circuit
ALL ADDITIONS OR SUGGESTIONS PLEASE PM or reply to this thread.
VERSION 1. Feel free to alter this document as you see fit, and redistribute it to as many vaping related boards as you can so that when the hammer falls we can all be prepared.
JustFog Maxi-II AUTO 650mah ego Kit – Stainless
Special Low Price! $32.95
TempestTek presents the JustFog Auto ego Kit:
- 650mah Stainless auto ego battery (no manual button, battery is activated on inhale)
- 10ml fill kit with drawstring cap for easy filling down the sides.
- 420mah USB Charger
- USB Wall adapter
- Maxi ego Clearomizer with replaceable top coil with long wick leads – 2ml and ~2.5ohm
- Presentation box
SUPER nice attractive starter kit for the new vaper because it is auto and complete (just add juice) but of course veteran vapers will appreciate a well performing fog producing automatic ego battery as well.
For best results when vaping with this auto battery take a short solid vape to get the battery activated followed immediately by your longer normal length vape. In our testing of this unit we have found this is the best way to get optimum performance!
When filling the top coil replaceable clearo note the line on the side of the poly carbonate clear tube that is annotated MAX and do not fill above that line. It is recommended you fill down the sides with the included 10ml squeeze bottle and to avoid getting any juice in the middle by filling too high! This is especially true with an auto battery as you do not want fluid running out the base and down the hole drilled into the battery – it will KILL you battery so be careful! Gotvapes is NOT responsible for damage to these batteries due to battery leakage. An AUTO is AN AUTO so be careful and only purchase this if you are confident you can use it properly. This means always checking for leakage and cleaning your connector area as frequently as possible. Honestly we cannot afford to carry auto batteries and have half of them returned due to misuse so we have to be strict on this!
We have Maxi replacement heads available in this section. Our rep tells us they are not sure if the JustFog 1453 replacement coils, which have a shorter wick would be compatible with this so it is recommended to only use the Maxi clearos designed for this but of course, YMMV. We are not responsible for any damage due to experimentation and use with other heads.
Thanks so much!
The question is what would be the next step upgrade from spinner/ego vv3 that could take the heavy vaping.
The outer appearance is not important. Could not do without VV and budged says between $50-70. Also would like to be able use my protanks with it.
Sorry i am all new to this and definitely not much od <a href="http://www.vapininthecape.com/DIY-eliquid_c_42.html”>diy person
Thank you in advance
I have several other flavors from Inawera that all look clean and clear(some are dark and some are lighter or clear but the Virginia is the only one with floaties in it), so I’m guessing this was just a bad batch. Haven’t even opened it.
Otherwise, I’m super excited to try all the flavors I got, Dark tobacco and Dark Fire especially 😀
I am a sucker for oak barrel steeped bourbon eliquids, so when I saw this I had to try it.
I have been vaping it for 24 hours now and here are my quick impressions.
It is very light overall, not in your face as I would expect from an oak barrel steeped bourbon eliquid. The caramel is by far the dominate flavor, with a just barely distinguishable hazelnut exhale. The caramel crushes everything else making them indistinguishable flavors in the background. I do not pick up the bourbon which is what I would assume would be the dominate flavor. Also I do not taste any hint of oak in this. If it has been steeped in an oak barrel I sure cannot tell.
For what it is advertised as, a smooth Kentucky Bourbon with vanilla, hazelnut, and caramel with hints of vanilla bean, steeped in oak barrel for 2 1/2 weeks, it’s pretty poor.
For a caramel vape that is pretty smooth and light, it’s pretty good which it’s not being billed as.